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The housing slump is hurting plenty of homeowners nationwide, but there's one group of people that's celebrating: prospective homebuyers.

As one member of our Foolish community discovered, buyers are in the driver's seat when it comes to real estate. Gone are the days when you had to make offers on houses the first morning they were listed. Sellers aren't seeing many bidding wars where they eventually get well above their list price. Instead, homes are remaining on the market month after month, and inventories continue to rise.

It's a game of chicken between buyers and sellers, and so far, sellers have played well. While overall sale prices are down, there hasn't been nearly the level of panic selling that makes those price tags really plummet. However, there are probably quite a few sellers whose patience is wearing very thin - if they blink first, then the price drops we've seen so far may look like just the tip of the iceberg.

Buyer, It's Your Market

So if you're in the market for a new home, time is on your side. Sure, you may end up missing the exact bottom of the real estate market. But with real estate out of favor in many parts of the country, there's no reason for you to feel rushed or pressured into acting quickly. Here are some tips for negotiating the best possible deal:

Take Your Time - Buying a house is always full of high-pressure situations. Nearly everyone involved in the transaction -- the sellers, real estate agents, and loan officers, just for starters -- is interested in one thing and one thing only: getting the deal done. But with conditions the way they are, you have all the leverage -- unless you give it up voluntarily. Don't do it.

Shop Around - Because time is on your side, you can get to really know an area before you buy. Rather than making a blind offer without being familiar with a particular neighborhood, you can compare your top prospects and do more in-depth research on the specific things that are most important to you. Whether it's finding a good school system or living in an area with promising long-term price appreciation potential, make the effort to find the place you really want.

Get Creative - Are you interested in buying, but don't have the best credit in the world? With the subprime woes spreading to larger firms like Bear Stearns (NYSE: BSC) and UBS (NYSE: UBS), you'll find that lending standards have tightened across the board.

As a result, you might have trouble getting financing as easily as you would have in the recent past. But don't despair: See if your seller would be interested in doing a private financing deal for part, or all, of the purchase price. Some sellers will do anything it takes to get their property off their hands, and you might be able to negotiate an interest rate that beats anything you could get in the subprime market.

Don't Jump The Gun - Unfortunately, many buyers are also in the position of being sellers at the same time. In the past, it was tempting to go ahead and buy your new house before you sold your original house, especially with easy bridge financing that made it possible. Now, however, you can't count on your old house selling in a timely fashion. If you just can't wait, make sure you put an express contingency into your offer to give you an out if your house doesn't sell.

Learn more

Buying a house is one of the most stressful experiences you'll ever go through. If there's a single piece of advice you need to remember, it's this: Don't panic. After going through all the stress of a home purchase, the end result is everything you hoped it would be.

What Impacts Your Credit Score?

Your monthly principal and interest charges are determined by the rate and the amount of the loan. And the rate and loan amount, in turn, are affected by several factors. The rate depends on your credit score, discount points you pay, and whether the down payment is less than 20 percent. The loan amount depends on the size of the down payment and the home's price.

There is also the matter of mortgage insurance, which is levied on borrowers who make a down payment of less than 20 percent.

What determines your mortgage payment?

Mortgage lenders closely scrutinize your financial history to determine whether to approve your loan application.

Of primary concern are:

• Your credit report, which details your payment history on all loans, bankruptcy filings and other financial information.


• Your credit score, which uses your credit report to arrive at a numerical representation of your overall creditworthiness.
  

Credit scores (sometimes called FICO scores after Fair Isaac Corp., the firm that created the most commonly used form) range from the 300s to about 900, with most home buyers falling in 600s and 700s.

Factors used to determine your credit score

Past delinquency: Those who have failed to make payments in the past tend to do so in the future. The more recent a delinquency, the more it counts against you; a 30-day delinquency within the past 12 months hinders your chances of getting favorable mortgage terms.

Length of credit: The longer you've had credit, the better.

Credit use: If you're maxed out or close to your credit limits, you're viewed as risky.

Mix of credit: Someone with a combination of revolving and installment debt is considered less risky than one with only a secured credit card.

The higher your credit score, the less risky you appear to a lender. A good credit score will help you qualify for a mortgage loan and obtain better terms.

Cleaning up your credit report

Why check your credit report before your lender does?

Because an estimated four out of five credit reports contain some kind of misinformation -- errors you'll want to clear up before approaching any lender.

Obtain copies of your credit report from all of the big three credit reporting agencies -- Equifax, Experian and TransUnion. Each probably will differ from the others in small ways.

Tips for cleaning up your credit report

• Look closely for any errors and correct them.


• Note late payments and credit balances; you may have to explain them to a lender.


• Compare account numbers to make sure they're yours.


• Pay all bills on time.


• Learn more about credit scores and how they're calculated.
  
  

How To Escape Foreclosure

Most people who sign a mortgage don't intend to walk away from it. Still, unforeseen circumstances -- huge medical bills, lost jobs, divorce or eroding property values -- can overwhelm even the best-intentioned borrower. A simple twist of fate can leave you facing a homeowner's worst nightmare: foreclosure.

Communicate With Your Lender

Rest assured, where foreclosure is concerned, you and your lender are on the same side. Lenders want your money and the interest that comes with it, not your house. If you seem to be a good risk, the lender will offer to help keep your mortgage afloat. But be forewarned: If you seem like a bad risk, the lender may cut its losses by taking steps to foreclose and evict you as quickly as possible.

The key is to contact the lender before your debt gets the better of you. The sooner your lender knows of your problem, the more help it can provide.

The Foreclosure Spiral

The foreclosure spiral begins when your loan payment becomes 16 days overdue. At that point, your mortgage company will try to contact you to work out a repayment schedule to bring your loan current.

If your first payment becomes 30 days delinquent and the next month's payment looks doubtful, collection attempts begin in earnest. If your payments fall 90 days behind, the company will likely refer your mortgage to an attorney or other entity that will initiate formal foreclosure proceedings.

Ways To Avoid Foreclosure

Here are some options your lender may offer you if you miss a payment and want to avoid foreclosure:

• Repayment Plan: If you suffer a short-term financial setback (expensive car repairs, a medical emergency), your lender may provide some breathing room by agreeing to let you pay off your missed payment in two installments over the next two months.
• Loan Modification: Mortgage company can adjust the terms of your loan -- most often by lengthening the amortization schedule, lowering the interest rate or rolling the delinquent amount into the loan and re-amortizing the new balance -- to help you bring the loan current.
• Short Sale: The lender allows you to sell the house for less than the outstanding loan amount, takes the proceeds and forgives any remaining debt.
• Short Refinance: The lender forgives some of your debt and refinances the rest into a new loan.
• Refinance With A "Hard Money" Loan: You won't like the high rates and fees of a hard money loan -- one from a private lender -- but it may buy you time to sell your home and avoid foreclosure.

Questions To Ask Your Mortgage Lender (Cont.)

Is there a prepayment penalty on this loan?

There may be a prepayment penalty on your loan. Some penalties are 1 percent of the loan amount, others are equal to six months' interest, some apply only when you refinance or reduce the principal balance by more than 20 percent, and some kick in if you sell your home. Find out the duration of any penalty period and how the penalty is calculated. Some lenders offer lower interest rates to buyers who accept prepayment penalties.

What is the minimum down payment required for this loan?

The rate and terms of your loan will be based on a down payment figure, typically 3 to 20 percent of the buy price. If you can put more money down, you may be able to lower your rate and improve your terms; if you come up short, you may be required to get mortgage insurance.

What are the qualifying guidelines for this loan?

These requirements relate to your income, employment, assets, liabilities and credit history. First-time home buyer programs, VA loans and other government-sponsored mortgage programs typically offer easier qualifying guidelines than conventional loans.

What documents will I have to provide?

Most lenders will require proof of income and assets before approving your loan, and may require other documents as well. Buyers with excellent credit may qualify for a no-documentation or "no-doc" loan, but they can expect to pay a hefty down payment and higher interest rate.

How long will it take to process my loan application?

The answer will depend on a number of variables. When the loan business is brisk, underwriters get backed up, verification takes longer, appraisals move slower and other bottlenecks develop along the loan pipeline. Lenders may say two weeks, but 45 to 60 days is probably more realistic in most cases. You'll need their best guess to determine how long to lock in your loan.

What might delay approval of my loan?

If you provide the lender with complete, accurate information, the loan process should run smoothly. If the underwriter discovers credit problems, however, there could be delays. Make sure you notify your lender if you change jobs, increase or decrease your salary, incur additional debt or change marital status between the time you submit an application and the time the loan is funded.

Questions To Ask Your Mortgage Lender

Once you've narrowed the lender field to a short list of finalists, it's time to compare their offers.

Here are the key questions to ask at application time to help you find the best overall mortgage loan. If you have already selected a lender and are ready to apply, make sure you have the answers to these questions first.

Once you've narrowed the lender field to a short list of finalists, it's time to compare their offers.

Here are the 10 key questions to ask at application time to help you find the best overall mortgage loan. If you have already selected a lender and are ready to apply, make sure you have the answers to these questions first.

What is the interest rate on this mortgage?

To determine exactly what you'll pay over the term of the loan, you need to know the rate. Rates change quickly, and if your credit is less than perfect, you may not be offered the lender's lowest figure.

To effectively compare different lenders' programs, ask for the annual percentage rate (APR) of the mortgage interest, which is generally higher than the initial quoted rate because it includes some fees. But beware: the APR found in advertisements can be misleading. Mortgage lenders don't always include all the fees they charge in the calculation that determines APR, so customers who use that figure to shop rather than an itemized breakdown of rates, points and fees may end up comparing apples to oranges.

How many discount and origination points will I pay?

Lenders may charge prepaid mortgage interest points to lower your interest rate or other points that have no benefit to you at all. Find out how many you'll be expected to pay and which kind of points they will be.

What are the closing costs?

Mortgages come with fees for various services provided by lenders and other parties involved in the transaction. You want to know what those fees will be as early as possible. Lenders are required to provide a written good faith estimate of closing costs within three days of receiving a loan application.

When can I lock the interest rate and what will it cost me to do so?

Your interest rate might fluctuate between the time you apply and closing. To prevent it from going up, you may want to lock the rate, and even points, for a specified period. Ask your lender if lock fees apply.

Now It's Time To Search For A Home!

Your first step here is to figure out what city or neighborhood you want to live in. (Remember the old saw about "location, location, location.")

For overall demographics and data on metropolitan areas, you can visit a city site like CNNMoney.com's annual Best Places to Live list. For more detailed neighborhood information, check out sites like Yahoo! Real Estate, Homepages.com or NeighborhoodScout for comprehensive school and demographic information on a number of communities. Look for signs of economic vitality: a mixture of young families and older couples, low unemployment and good incomes.

Pay special attention to districts with good schools (high teacher-student ratios and graduation rates are among the hallmarks), even if you don't have school-age children. When it comes time to sell, you'll find that a strong school system is a major advantage in helping your home retain or gain value.

Try also to get an idea about the real estate market in the area. For example, if homes are selling close to or even above the asking price, that shows the area is desirable. Try Homegain.com, which is free, or Dataquick.com, which is available only to paid subscribers, to check out recent home sales.

Your real estate agent may also be able to show you listings. Incidentally, if you have the flexibility, consider doing your house hunt in the off-season -- meaning, generally, the colder months of the year. You'll have less competition and sellers may be more willing to negotiate.
Next, take your search to real estate site like reelestate.com which let you search for property that fit your requirements.

Be wary of choosing search criteria that are too restrictive. For example, select a price range 10 percent above and 10 percent below your true range. Add a 10-mile cushion to the location you specify. If you see a house you are interested in, save it, print it, add it to your bookmark or favorites list, and take note of the MLS code; your agent will want that code to arrange to show you the home in person.

In a condo, each owner has absolute ownership of his own unit, which may be an apartment or townhouse. Owners pay a monthly fee to maintain shared areas like the lobby, the pool, or the laundry room. The chief financial risk to a condo owner is that the common charges can rise, or, in the event of a major problem such as a roof repair or boiler replacement, the condo board can assess fees to cover expensive repairs.

It's a good idea, when considering a condo, to find out how much the common charge has changed over the last five years, and whether there have been major assessments during that time. Also ask what percentage of the residents actually own their units as opposed to just renting them (many condos include both). A complex with lots of renters has fewer owners who care about the upkeep, and it may be harder to get a loan on such a property.

When you actually start touring homes, bring a notebook and a digital camera to help you remember details. Your real estate agent should supply you with a description of each house and the lot it sits on, the property tax assessment, the asking price, and sometimes a diagram of the rooms. Your camera and notebook are there to record other details, ranging from the cost of heating to the view out the rear window.

One note: Don't automatically reject a house just because it doesn't measure up to your desires, either in features or price. You can always add a deck, for instance, or update a kitchen. Since the asking price is just a starting point for negotiation, you will be making offers and counteroffers as both parties seek an acceptable price.

Don't Buy A Home Without Professional Help.

With all the tools and advice available today ranging from books and magazines to online advice like this lesson - it would be possible for you to buy your home almost completely without the aid of real estate professionals.

That's not necessarily recommended. The housing market, like politics, is basically local, and each state, city, and even neighborhood has a thicket of local laws or customs that you need to understand. For that, it helps to have a team of professionals to guide you.

You might want to start by finding an agent who can represent your interests in the search. This is not as simple as it sounds. Sure, 85 percent of sellers list their homes through an agent - but those agents are working for the seller, not you. They're paid based on a percentage, usually 5 to 7 percent of the purchase price, so their interest will be in getting you to pay more.

What you need is what's known as an "exclusive buyer agent." Sometimes buyer agents are paid directly by you, on an hourly or contracted fee. Other times they split the commission that the seller's agent gets upon sale. A buyer's representative has the same access to homes for sale that a seller's agent does, but his or her allegiance is supposed to be only to you.

To complicate matters, there are hybrid agencies called either single-agency or dual-agency brokers. In both cases, an individual agent in the firm may represent either sellers or buyers, sometimes both, in the same transaction. Potential conflicts of interest abound in this situation, so if you are seeking a buyer agent but no exclusive buyer agent is available, make sure to ask the agent about conflicts of interest.

There are now about a dozen Web sites that help connect buyers with buyers agents, among them reelestate.com.

Next start looking for a mortgage lender. Take your time, since you could be paying this loan for 30, even 40, years. Start on the Internet at places like LendingTree.com and E-loan.com. You may also want to check out the rates at CNNMoney.com, Bankrate, or HSH Associates. These sites carry nationwide listings of mortgage interest rates and other related information.
Don't limit your search to the Web, though. Once you have an idea of the best rates from national lenders, get on the phone to your community banks and any other institutions with which you may have a relationship. Ask if they can beat the national rates. Often, the local lender can offer a better deal simply because he or she knows the local market and wants to keep your business.

You might also consider using a mortgage broker, a middleman who keeps tabs on rates from a multitude of lenders. The mortgage broker isn't paid directly by you but gets paid by the bank. However, the fee - usually 1.5 to 3 percent of the loan amount - may get transferred to you in the closing costs. Most search engines have extensive listings of mortgage brokers. There's also a trade group, the National Association of Mortgage Brokers, which can put you in touch with a broker in your area.

Getting the money right

For most people, buying a house involves a double financial whammy.

First you have to assemble a pile of cash for the down payment and closing costs. Then you must convince a bank to lend you an even more staggering sum - generally 80 percent or more of the purchase price.

So your first step, even before you start the actual hunt for a property, should be to get your financial house in order.

Start with your credit

Credit reports are kept by the three major credit agencies,
Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion. Among other things, they show whether you are habitually late with payments and whether you have run into serious credit problems in the past.

A credit score is a number calculated by Fair Isaac based on the information in your credit report. You have three different credit scores, one for each of your credit reports.

A low credit score may hurt your chances for getting the best interest rate, or getting financing at all. So get a copy of your reports and know your credit scores. Try Fair Isaac's MyFICO.com, which charges upwards of $50 for all three reports and scores.

Errors are not uncommon. If you find any, you must contact the agencies directly to correct them, which can take two or three months to resolve. If the report is accurate but shows past problems, be prepared to explain them to a loan officer.

Know what you can afford

Next, you need to determine how much house you can afford. You can start with one of the Web's many calculators. For a more accurate figure, ask to be pre-approved by a lender, who will look at your income, debt and credit to determine the kind of loan that's in your league.
The rule of thumb here is to aim for a home that costs about two-and-a-half times your gross annual salary. If you have significant credit card debt or other financial obligations like alimony or even an expensive hobby, then you may need to set your sights lower.

Another rule of thumb: All your monthly home payments should not exceed 36 percent of your gross monthly income.

The size of your down payment will also determine how much you can afford.

Line up cash

If you haven't already, you'll need to come up with cash for your down payment and closing costs. Lenders like to see 20 percent of the home's price as a down payment. If you can put down more than that, the lender may be willing to approve a larger loan. If you have less, you'll need to find loans that can accommodate you.

Various private and public agencies - including Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac, the Federal Housing Administration, and the Department of Veterans Affairs - provide low down payment mortgages through banks and mortgage companies. If you qualify, it's possible to pay as little as 3 percent up front. For more, check out their Web sites at Fanniemae.com or Freddiemac.com.

A warning: With a down payment under 20 percent, you will probably wind up having to pay for private mortgage insurance, a safety net protecting the bank in case you fail to make payments. PMI adds about 0.5 percent of the total loan amount to your mortgage payments for the year.

So if you finance $200,000, your PMI will cost $1,000 annually.

Increasingly, though, lenders are giving qualified buyers the option of using "piggyback loans" to cover a portion of a home's down payment and avoid paying PMI. These second loans are usually in the form of a home equity loan or line of credit for 10 percent to 15 percent of the home's purchase price.

Once you've considered the down payment, make sure you've got enough to cover fees and closing costs. These may include the appraisal fee, loan fees, attorney's fees, inspection fees, and the cost of a title search. They can easily add up to more than $10,000 - and often run to 5 percent of the mortgage amount.

If your available cash doesn't cover your needs, you have several options. First-time homebuyers can withdraw up to $10,000 without penalty from an Individual Retirement Account, if you have one, though you must pay taxes on the amount. You can also receive a cash gift of up to $12,000 a year (the limit for 2006) from each of your parents without triggering a gift tax.

Gift taxes are paid by the donor, not the recipient. (In fact, if your and your spouse's parents are both well-heeled, they can give you a total of $96,000 in one year - $12,000 from each of the four parents to each of you.)

Check on whether your employer can help; some big companies will chip in on the down payment or help you get a low-interest loan from selected lenders. You can also tap a 401(k) or similar retirement plan for a loan from yourself.

Top Things To Know About Buying A Home (Cont.)

6. Get professional help.
Even though the Internet gives buyers unprecedented access to home listings, most new buyers (and many more experienced ones) are better off using a professional agent. Look for an exclusive buyer agent, if possible, who will have your interests at heart and can help you with strategies during the bidding process.

7. Choose carefully between points and rate.
When picking a mortgage, you usually have the option of paying additional points -- a portion of the interest that you pay at closing -- in exchange for a lower interest rate. If you stay in the house for a long time -- say five to seven years or more -- it's usually a better deal to take the points. The lower interest rate will save you more in the long run.

8. Before house hunting, get pre-approved.
Getting pre-approved will you save yourself the grief of looking at houses you can't afford and put you in a better position to make a serious offer when you do find the right house. Not to be confused with pre-qualification, which is based on a cursory review of your finances, pre-approval from a lender is based on your actual income, debt and credit history.

9. Do your homework before bidding.
Your opening bid should be based on the sales trend of similar homes in the neighborhood. So before making it, consider sales of similar homes in the last three months. If homes have recently sold at 5 percent less than the asking price, you should make a bid that's about eight to 10 percent lower than what the seller is asking.

10. Hire a home inspector.
Sure, your lender will require a home appraisal anyway. But that's just the bank's way of determining whether the house is worth the price you've agreed to pay. Separately, you should hire your own home inspector, preferably an engineer with experience in doing home surveys in the area where you are buying. His or her job will be to point out potential problems that could require costly repairs down the road.

Top Things To Know About Buying A Home

1. Don't buy if you can't stay put.
If you can't commit to remaining in one place for at least a few years, then owning is probably not for you, at least not yet. With the transaction costs of buying and selling a home, you may end up losing money if you sell any sooner.

2. Start by shoring up your credit.
Since you most likely will need to get a mortgage to buy a house, you must make sure your credit history is as clean as possible. A few months before you start house hunting, get copies of your credit report. Make sure the facts are correct, and fix any problems you discover.

3. Aim for a home you can really afford.
The rule of thumb is that you can buy housing that runs about two-and-one-half times your annual salary. But you'll do better to use one of many calculators available online to get a better handle on how your income, debts, and expenses affect what you can afford.

4. Don't worry if you can't put down the usual 20 percent.
There are a variety of public and private lenders who, if you qualify, offer low-interest mortgages that require a down payment as small as 3 percent of the purchase price.

5. Buy in a district with good schools.
In most areas, this advice applies even if you don't have school-age children. Reason: When it comes time to sell, you'll learn that strong school districts are a top priority for many home buyers, thus helping to boost property values.

Ways to Lower Your Homeowners Insurance Costs (Cont.)

7. Seek out other discounts

Companies offer several types of discounts, but they don't all offer the same discount or the same amount of discount in all states. For example, since retired people stay at home more than working people they are less likely to be burglarized and may spot fires sooner, too. Retired people also have more time for maintaining their homes. If you're at least 55 years old and retired, you may qualify for a discount of up to 10 percent at some companies. Some employers and professional associations administer group insurance programs that may offer a better deal than you can get elsewhere.

8. Maintain a good credit record

Establishing a solid credit history can cut your insurance costs. Insurers are increasingly using credit information to price homeowners insurance policies. In most states, your insurer must advise you of any adverse action, such as a higher rate, at which time you should verify the accuracy of the information on which the insurer relied. To protect your credit standing, pay your bills on time, don't obtain more credit than you need and keep your credit balances as low as possible. Check your credit record on a regular basis and have any errors corrected promptly so that your record remains accurate.

9. Stay with the same insurer

If you've kept your coverage with a company for several years, you may receive a special discount for being a long-term policyholder. Some insurers will reduce their premiums by 5 percent if you stay with them for three to five years and by 10 percent if you remain a policyholder for six years or more. But make certain to periodically compare this price with that of other policies.

10. Review the limits in your policy and the value of your possessions at least once a year

You want your policy to cover any major purchases or additions to your home. But you don't want to spend money for coverage you don't need. If your five-year-old fur coat is no longer worth the $5,000 you paid for it, you'll want to reduce or cancel your floater (extra insurance for items whose full value is not covered by standard homeowners policies such as expensive jewelry, high-end computers and valuable art work) and pocket the difference.

11. Look for private insurance if you are in a government plan

If you live in a high-risk area -- say, one that is especially vulnerable to coastal storms, fires, or crime -- and have been buying your homeowners insurance through a government plan, you should check with an insurance agent or company representative or contact your state department of insurance for the names of companies that might be interested in your business. You may find that there are steps you can take that would allow you to buy insurance at a lower price in the private market.

12. When you’re buying a home, consider the cost of homeowners insurance

You may pay less for insurance if you buy a house close to a fire hydrant or in a community that has a professional rather than a volunteer fire department. It may also be cheaper if your home’s electrical, heating and plumbing systems are less than 10 years old. If you live in the East, consider a brick home because it's more wind resistant.

Remember that flood insurance and earthquake damage are not covered by a standard homeowners policy. If you buy a house in a flood-prone area, you'll have to pay for a flood insurance policy that costs an average of $400 a year. The Federal Emergency Management Agency provides useful information on flood insurance on its Web site at FloodSmart.gov. A separate earthquake policy is available from most insurance companies. The cost of the coverage will depend on the likelihood of earthquakes in your area.

If you have questions about insurance for any of your possessions, be sure to ask your agent or company representative when you're shopping around for a policy. For example, if you run a business out of your home, be sure to discuss coverage for that business. Most homeowners policies cover business equipment in the home, but only up to $2,500 and they offer no business liability insurance. Although you want to lower your homeowners insurance cost, you also want to make certain you have all the coverage you need.

Ways to Lower Your Homeowners Insurance Costs

1. Shop Around

It'll take some time, but could save you a good sum of money. Ask your friends, check the Yellow Pages or contact your state insurance department. National Association of Insurance Commissioners has information to help you choose an insurer in your state, including complaints. States often make information available on typical rates charged by major insurers and many states provide the frequency of consumer complaints by company.

Also check consumer guides, insurance agents, companies and online insurance quote services. This will give you an idea of price ranges and tell you which companies have the lowest prices. But don't consider price alone. The insurer you select should offer a fair price and deliver the quality service you would expect if you needed assistance in filing a claim. So in assessing service quality, use the complaint information cited above and talk to a number of insurers to get a feeling for the type of service they give. Ask them what they would do to lower your costs.
Check the financial stability of the companies you are considering with rating companies such as A.M. Best and Standard & Poor’s and consult consumer magazines. When you've narrowed the field to three insurers, get price quotes.

2. Raise Your Deductible

Deductibles are the amount of money you have to pay toward a loss before your insurance company starts to pay a claim, according to the terms of your policy. The higher your deductible, the more money you can save on your premiums. Nowadays, most insurance companies recommend a deductible of at least $500. If you can afford to raise your deductible to $1,000, you may save as much as 25 percent. Remember, if you live in a disaster-prone area, your insurance policy may have a separate deductible for certain kinds of damage. If you live near the coast in the East, you may have a separate windstorm deductible; if you live in a state vulnerable to hail storms, you may have a separate deductible for hail; and if you live in an earthquake-prone area, your earthquake policy has a deductible.

3. Don’t confuse what you paid for your house with rebuilding costs

The land under your house isn't at risk from theft, windstorm, fire and the other perils covered in your homeowners policy. So don't include its value in deciding how much homeowners insurance to buy. If you do, you will pay a higher premium than you should.

4. Buy your home and auto policies from the same insurer

Some companies that sell homeowners, auto and liability coverage will take 5 to 15 percent off your premium if you buy two or more policies from them. But make certain this combined price is lower than buying the different coverages from different companies.

5. Make your home more disaster resistant

Find out from your insurance agent or company representative what steps you can take to make your home more resistant to windstorms and other natural disasters. You may be able to save on your premiums by adding storm shutters, reinforcing your roof or buying stronger roofing materials. Older homes can be retrofitted to make them better able to withstand earthquakes. In addition, consider modernizing your heating, plumbing and electrical systems to reduce the risk of fire and water damage.

6. Improve your home security

You can usually get discounts of at least 5 percent for a smoke detector, burglar alarm or dead-bolt locks. Some companies offer to cut your premium by as much as 15 or 20 percent if you install a sophisticated sprinkler system and a fire and burglar alarm that rings at the police, fire or other monitoring stations. These systems aren't cheap and not every system qualifies for a discount. Before you buy such a system, find out what kind your insurer recommends, how much the device would cost and how much you'd save on premiums.

Ten Important Questions to Ask Your Home Inspector

1. What does your inspection cover?

The inspector should ensure that their inspection and inspection report will meet all applicable requirements in your state if applicable and will comply with a well-recognized standard of practice and code of ethics. You should be able to request and see a copy of these items ahead of time and ask any questions you may have. If there are any areas you want to make sure are inspected, be sure to identify them upfront.

2. How long have you been practicing in the home inspection profession and how many inspections have you completed?

The inspector should be able to provide his or her history in the profession and perhaps even a few names as referrals. Newer inspectors can be very qualified, and many work with a partner or have access to more experienced inspectors to assist them in the inspection.

3. Are you specifically experienced in residential inspection?

Related experience in construction or engineering is helpful, but is no substitute for training and experience in the unique discipline of home inspection. If the inspection is for a commercial property, then this should be asked about as well.

4. Do you offer to do repairs or improvements based on the inspection?

Some inspector associations and state regulations allow the inspector to perform repair work on problems uncovered in the inspection. Other associations and regulations strictly forbid this as a conflict of interest.

5. How long will the inspection take?

The average on-site inspection time for a single inspector is two to three hours for a typical single-family house; anything significantly less may not be enough time to perform a thorough inspection. Additional inspectors may be brought in for very large properties and buildings.

6. How much will it cost?

Costs vary dramatically, depending on the region, size and age of the house, scope of services and other factors. A typical range might be $300-$500, but consider the value of the home inspection in terms of the investment being made. Cost does not necessarily reflect quality. HUD Does not regulate home inspection fees.

7. What type of inspection report do you provide and how long will it take to receive the report?

Ask to see samples and determine whether or not you can understand the inspector's reporting style and if the time parameters fulfill your needs. Most inspectors provide their full report within 24 hours of the inspection.

8. Will I be able to attend the inspection?

This is a valuable educational opportunity, and an inspector's refusal to allow this should raise a red flag. Never pass up this opportunity to see your prospective home through the eyes of an expert.

9. Do you maintain membership in a professional home inspector association?

There are many state and national associations for home inspectors. Request to see their membership ID, and perform whatever due diligence you deem appropriate.

10. Do you participate in continuing education programs to keep your expertise up to date?

One can never know it all, and the inspector's commitment to continuing education is a good measure of his or her professionalism and service to the consumer. This is especially important in cases where the home is much older or includes unique elements requiring additional or updated training.

8 Steps To Buying Your Home (Cont)

Step 5: Make an Offer on the Home

Now that you've found the home you want, you have to make an offer. Most sellers price their homes a bit high, expecting that there will be some haggling involved. A decent place to start is about five percent below the asking price. You can also get a list from your real estate agent to find out how much comparable homes have sold for. Once you've made your offer, don't think it's final. The seller may make a counter-offer to which you can also counter-offer. But you don't want to go back and forth too much. Somewhere, you have to meet in the middle. Once you've agreed on a price, you'll make an earnest money deposit which is money that goes in escrow to give the seller a sign of good faith.

Step 6: Get the Right Mortgage for Your Situation

There are many different types of mortgage programs out there, but as a first-time home buyer, you should be aware of the three basics: adjustable rate, fixed rate and interest-only.
Adjustable rate mortgages (ARMs) are short-term mortgages that offer an interest rate that is fixed for a short period of time, usually between one to seven years. After that, the interest rate can adjust every year up or down, depending on the market. These are good for people who don't plan on living in their home very long and/or are looking for a lower interest rate and payment.

Fixed-rate mortgages are more traditional and offer a fixed interest rate (and thus a fixed monthly payment) for a longer period of time, usually 15 or 30 years, though they're available in 20 or 25 year terms. These are good for people who like a predictable payment and plan on living in their home for a long time.

Both fixed and adjustable rate mortgages can have an interest-only payment. What this means is that for a certain amount of time during the loan term, you're allowed to pay only enough to cover the interest portion of your payment. You can still pay principal when you wish, but don't have to if your budget is tight. There is a myth that with interest-only mortgages, you don't build equity. This is not necessarily true, since you can build equity through home appreciation. The benefit to interest-only mortgages is that you increase your cash flow by not paying principal.

Remember to ask your mortgage lender or mortgage banker lots of questions about which mortgage is right for you and your situation.

Step 7: Close on Your Home

Make sure you get a home inspection before you close. It may be an extra fee, but it will be well-worth the money spent since it ensures the property's structural soundness and good condition.
Setting the closing date for a time that is convenient to both parties may be tricky, but can certainly be done. Remember that you may have to wait until your rental agreement runs out and the seller may have to wait until they close on their new house.
Be sure you talk to your mortgage banker to understand all the costs that will be involved with the closing so there are no surprises. Closing costs will likely include (but are not limited to) your down payment, title fees, appraisal fees, attorney fees, inspection fees, and points you may have bought to buy down your interest rate.

Step 8: Move In!

You've got your mortgage, closed the deal and now it's time to move in! Whether you use a mover or not is up to you, depending on your financial situation and how much stuff you have to move; perhaps also, whether you have a lot of friends willing to help you move. Either way, you're done with the home buying process! Just start unpacking and start enjoying your first home! Buying a home for the first time doesn't have to be a hassle if you're prepared and you know what to do and when to do it. Choose an experienced home loan lender and a friendly, knowledgeable real estate agent-they are the key to helping you have a smooth home buying experience!

8 Steps To Buying Your Home

Buying a home can be a very intimidating process, especially if you've never done it before.

So the first thing you should do before you start the home buying process is to figure out whether owning a home is right for you. It may or may not be and this decision depends on you and what your circumstances are. If you're in a region where housing is at a real premium or is very expensive (such as New York or California), it may be better for you to continue renting. Take into account that if you do buy a home, there are extra responsibilities and costs that go along with owning a home-such as lawn care, snow removal, home maintenance and repairs, etc.

So, if you've decided that renting is no longer for you and you want to move into your own home, you may ask, "Where do I begin?"

Step 1: Check Your Credit Report & Score

Before getting a mortgage or any kind of loan, you should always check your credit. According to the law, you're allowed to receive one free copy of your credit report per year. Scores range from approximately 300 to 850; generally, the higher your score, the better loan you'll qualify for. Don't forget to check your report for errors. If there are any, dispute them. It may help your credit score.

Step 2: Figure out How Much You Can Afford

You can calculate how much you can afford by starting online. There are several online mortgage calculators that will help you calculate an affordable monthly mortgage payment. Don't forget to factor in money you'll need for a down payment, closing costs, fees (such as fees for an attorney, appraisal, inspection, etc.) and the costs of remodeling or furniture. Remember that you don't always have to put down 20 percent as your parents once did. There are loans available with little to no down payment. An experienced home loan expert can help you understand all your loan options, closing costs and other fees.

Step 3: Find the Right Lender and Real Estate Agent

To find the right mortgage lender and real estate agent, it's best to shop around. Get recommendations from your friends and family and check with the Better Business Bureau. Talk to at least three or four mortgage lenders as well as three or four real estate agents. Ask lots of questions and make sure they have answers that satisfy you. Make sure to find someone that you are comfortable with and who makes you feel at ease.

Once you have the right mortgage lender, make sure you at least get a pre-approval. Pre-qualifications are only a guess based on what you tell the lender and are no guarantee, whereas a pre-approval will give you a better idea of how big a loan you qualify for. The lender will actually pull your credit and get more information about you. However, you could even take it one step further by getting an actual approval before you start home shopping. That way, when you're ready to make an offer, it will make the sale go much quicker. Besides, your offer will look more appealing than other buyers since your financing is guaranteed.

Step 4: Look for the Right Home

Make a list of the things you'll need to have in the house. Ask yourself how many bedrooms and bathrooms you'll need and get an idea of how much space you desire. How big do you want the kitchen to be? Do you need lots of closets and cabinet space? Do you need a big yard for your kids and/or pets to play in?

Once you've made a list of your must-have's, don't forget to think about the kind of neighborhood you want, types of schools in the area, the length of your commute to and from work, and the convenience of local shopping. Take into account your safety concerns as well as how good the rate of home appreciation is in the area.

(Part 3) Why You Need Title Insurance

I'm refinancing, why do I need title insurance?

When you refinance you are obtaining a new loan, even if you stay with your original lender. Your lender will usually require a new title search and Loan Policy to protect their investment in the property. You will not need to purchase a new Owner's Policy; the one you bought at closing is good for as long as you and your heirs have an interest in the property.

Even if you recently purchased or refinanced your home, there are some problems that could arise with the title. For instance, you might have incurred a mechanics lien from a contractor who claims he/she has not been paid. Or you might have a judgment placed on your house due to unpaid taxes, homeowner dues, or child support for instance. The lender needs reassurance that the title to the property they are financing is clear.

Ask if you qualify for a "refinance" rate, sometimes called a "reissue" rate. These rates are not available in every state, and you might have to meet some criteria to be eligible, so be sure to ask.

How To File A Claim

An owner's policy of title insurance is intended to provide the homeowner with peace of mind about their legal rights to real property.

Whenever the homeowner has any question or concern about his or her rights, he or she should promptly notify the title insurance company whose name appears on his title policy. The title policy includes instructions for contacting the title insurer, usually at the end of the "Conditions and Stipulations" section within the policy.

If you are unable to locate your policy, or are unsure whether you purchased a policy, you should contact the title company, title agent or attorney that handled your purchase and inquire about your coverage. You can determine if you have title insurance coverage by reviewing the settlement statement ("HUD-1") provided at the closing of your purchase, which itemizes receipts and disbursements by the closing officer. For example, charges for an owner's policy of title insurance are listed on line 1110 of the standard HUD-1 form of settlement statement. Contact information for the title insurer may also be found in telephone directories, on the internet, or by inquiry to your state department of insurance.

When giving notice of a potential claim to the title insurer, you should include the property address, a brief statement of the question or matter that concerns you, copies of any claims documents received, and a copy of your owner's policy (if available).

Remember, the broad coverage of title insurance includes protection against frivolous claims, or "clouds" on title that may not present an immediate problem. So it's best to contact the title insurer promptly, as soon as you have any question or concern about your legal rights with insured land.

(Part 2) Why You Need Title Insurance

The Loan Policy

There are two types of title insurance: Owner's title insurance, as mentioned above, and Lenders title insurance, also called a Loan Policy. Most lenders usually require a Loan Policy when they issue you a loan. The Loan Policy is usually based on the dollar amount of your loan. It only protects the lender's interests in the property should a problem with the title arise. It does not protect the buyer. The policy amount decreases each year and eventually disappears as the loan is paid off.

Prices vary from state to state. Be sure to ask your settlement or title company about pricing and whether the Loan Policy and Owner's Policy are sold separately or together.

Common Title Problems

Here are three short stories on some common title problems:

Fraud & Forgery

(NAPS) — Those involved in real estate fraud and forgery can be clever and persistent, which can spell trouble for your home purchase.

An innocent buyer purchased an attractive home site through a realty company, accepting a notarized deed from the seller. Then another couple, the true owners of the property — who lived in another locale — suddenly appeared and initiated legal action to prove their interest in the real estate was valid. Under the Owner’s Title Insurance Policy of the innocent buyer, bought for a one-time fee at closing, the title company provided a money settlement to protect against financial loss. As it turned out, the forger spent time in advance at the local court house, searching the public records to locate property with out-of-town owners who had been in possession for an extended period of time. The individual involved then forged and recorded a deed to a fictitious person and assumed the identity of that person before listing the property for sale to an innocent purchaser, handling most contacts through an answering service. Also, the identity of the notary appearing on deeds was fictitious as well.

Fraud and forgery are examples of hidden title hazards that can remain undetected until after a closing despite the most careful precautions. Although emphasizing risk elimination, an Owner’s Policy protects you financially through negotiation by the insurer with third-parties, payment for defending against an attack on the title as insured, and payment of valid claims.

Conflicting Wills

(NAPS) — Conflicts over a will from a deceased former owner may suggest a study topic for law school. But the subject can take on a reality dimension and all too quickly your home ownership is at stake.

After purchasing a residence, the new owner was startled when a brother of the seller claimed an ownership interest and sought a substantial amount of money as his share. It seemed that their late mother had given the house to the son making the challenge, who placed the deed in his drawer without recording it at the court house. Some 20 years later, after the death of the mother, the deed was discovered and then filed. Permission was granted in probate court to remove the property from the late mother’s estate, and the brother to whom the residence initially was given sold the house. But the other brother appealed the probate court decision, claiming their mother really did not intend to give the house to his sibling. Ultimately, the appeal was upheld and the new owner faced a significant financial loss. Since the new owner had acquired an Owner's Policy of Title Insurance upon purchasing the real estate, the title company paid the claim, along with an additional amount in legal fees incurred during the defense.

Missing Heirs

(NAPS) - When buying a home, it's important to remember what you don't know can cost you.
A couple purchased a residence from a widow and her daughter, the only known heirs of the husband and father who died without leaving a will.

Soon after the sale, a man appeared - claiming he was the son of the late owner by a former marriage. As it turned out, he indeed was the son of the deceased man. This legal heir disapproved of his father's remarriage and had vanished when the wedding took place. Nonetheless, the son was entitled to a share of the value of the home, which meant an expensive problem for the unwary couple purchasing the property.

Although the absence of a will hindered discovery of the missing heir in a title search of the public records, an Owner's Policy of Title Insurance issued for a one-time fee at the time of the real estate transaction would have financially protected the couple from the claim by the missing heir. For a one-time charge at closing, an Owner's Policy will safeguard against problems including those even an exhaustive search will not reveal.

An Owner's Policy is necessary to fully protect a home buyer. Lender's title insurance, which is usually required by the mortgage lender, serves as protection only for the lending institution.

Why You Need Title Insurance

When you purchase your home, how can you be sure that there are no problems with the home's title and that the seller really owns the property? Problems with the title can limit your use and enjoyment of the property, as well as bring financial loss. That is what a title search and title insurance are for.

The Title Search

After your sales contract has been accepted, a title professional will search the public records to look for any problems with the home's title. This search typically involves a review of land records going back many years. More than 1/3 of all title searches reveal a title problem that title professionals fix before you go to closing. For instance, a previous owner may have had minor construction done on the property, but never fully paid the contractor. Or the previous owner may have failed to pay local or state taxes (See below for some other common title problems). Title professionals seek to resolve problems like these before you go to closing. What happens if a problem arises after you move in? Read on.

The Owner's Title Policy

Sometimes title problems occur that could not be found in the public records or are inadvertently missed in the title search process. To help protect you in these events, it is recommended that you obtain an Owner's Policy of Title Insurance to insure you against the most unforeseen problems.

Owner's Title Insurance, called an Owner's Policy, is usually issued in the amount of the real estate purchase. It is purchased for a one-time fee at closing and lasts for as long as you or your heirs have an interest in the property. Only an Owner's Policy fully protects the buyer should a covered title problem arise with the title that was not found during the title search. Possible hidden title problems can include:

• Errors or omissions in deeds
• Mistakes in examining records
• Forgery
• Undisclosed heirs
  

An Owner's Policy provides assurance that your title company will stand behind you — monetarily and with legal defense if needed — if a covered title problem arises after you buy your home. The bottom line is that your title company will be there to help pay valid claims and cover the costs of defending an attack on your title. Receiving an Owner's Policy isn't always an automatic part of the closing process, and is paid for by different people in different parts of the country. Be sure you request an Owner's Policy and ask how it is paid for where you live. No matter who pays for the Owner's Policy, the fee is a one-time fee paid at closing. The Owner's Policy protects you for as long as you or your heirs have an interest in the property.
You also have the option of purchasing a policy with expanded coverage. It's called the Homeowner's Policy and it covers more things than the Owner's Policy. Ask your local title company for an explanation of the expanded Homeowner's Policy so you can decide which policy is the best one for you.

(Part 2) How Much Can I Afford?

Typically, your monthly housing expense, including monthly payments for taxes and insurance, should not exceed about 28 percent of your gross monthly income. If you don't know what your tax and insurance expense will be, you can estimate that about 15 percent of your payment will go toward this expense. The remainder can be used for principal and interest repayment.

In addition, your proposed monthly housing expense and your total monthly debt service combined cannot exceed about 36 percent of your gross monthly income. If it does, your application may exceed the lender's underwriting guidelines and your loan may not be approved.

Depending on your individual situation, there may be more or less flexibility in the 28 percent and 36 percent guidelines. For example, if you are able to buy the home while borrowing less than 80 percent of the home's value by making a large cash down payment, the qualifying ratios become less critical. Likewise, if Bill Gates or a rich uncle is willing to cosign on the loan with you, lenders will be much less focused on the guidelines discussed here.

Remember that there are hundreds of loan programs available in today's lending market and every one of them has different guidelines. So don't be discouraged if your dream home seems out of reach.

In addition, there are a number of factors within your control which affect your monthly payment. For example, you might choose to apply for an adjustable rate loan which has a lower initial payment than a fixed rate program. Likewise, a larger down payment has the effect of lowering your projected monthly payment.

How Much Can I Afford?

Look at your income to get a guesstimate ( By John Adams Homestore.com)

As you think about applying for a home loan, you need to consider your personal finances. How much you earn versus how much you owe will likely determine how much a lender will allow you to borrow.

First, determine your gross monthly income. This will include any regular and recurring income that you can document. Unfortunately, if you can't document the income or it doesn't show up on your tax return, then you can't use it to qualify for a loan. However, you can use unearned sources of income such as alimony or lottery payoffs. And if you own income-producing assets such as real estate or stocks, the income from those can be estimated and used in this calculation. If you have questions about your specific situation, any good loan officer can review the rules.

Next, calculate your monthly debt load. This includes all monthly debt obligations like credit cards, installment loans, car loans, personal debts or any other ongoing monthly obligation like alimony or child support. If it is revolving debt like a credit card, use the minimum monthly payment for this calculation. If it is installment debt, use the current monthly payment to calculate your debt load. And you don't have to consider a debt at all if it is scheduled to be paid off in less than six months. Add all this up and it is a figure we'll call your monthly debt service.

In a nutshell, most lenders don't want you to take out a loan that will overload your ability to repay everybody you owe. Although every lender has slightly different formulas, here is a rough idea of how they look at the numbers.

(Part 2) 10 Mistakes You Can't Afford

• Hire Just Any Agent to Sell Your House: All real estate agents are not the same. You want to look for those who specialize in your neighborhood and are top producers. Ask your candidates how they plan to market your house, what you can do to make the place more attractive to prospects and how much you should ask. If you don't like any of the answers, looks elsewhere. And above all, stay away from relatives. Unless Aunt Bessie or Nephew Nick fit the description above, keep looking.

• Fail to Check Out a Remodeler: Never, ever hire a contractor who knocks on your door or says his prices are good for only a few days. Reputable remodelers don't solicit door-to-door, and they don't cut prices just because they happen to be in your neighborhood. Check out a potential contractor thoroughly by calling several of his past clients, your local better business bureau, his bankers and suppliers, and your local consumer affairs agency.

• Pay Too Much Upfront: If a contractor asks for more than a third of the contract price as a downpayment, chances are something's wrong. At worst, he's a scam artist who has no intention of returning after he cashes your check. At best, he's undercapitalized and can't afford to purchase materials on his own. Or, in between, he could be using your money to pay workers on another job. Never give a contractor cash, either.
  

• Burn Your Mortgage: It's a wonderful feeling when you make your last house payment. After all, the place is now yours, all yours. Many people celebrate by holding a mortgage burning party. But they torch the original document. Don't. Make a copy and burn that instead. Keep all your loan docs in a safe place.

10 Mistakes You Can't Afford

Check out these 10 things to avoid in your home finances (By Lew Sichelman /Homestore.com)

Most advice columns tell you how you should do things. But there are all kinds of things you shouldn't do, either. Here are 10 frequent financial mistakes that consumers routinely make -- and you should avoid.

Don't:

• Choose the Wrong Mortgage: With the advent of instant refinancing, home loans are no longer the lifetime obligations they used to be. Still, you don't want to be saddled for even a short period of time with the wrong one. Investigate all your options, then lay your choices side-by-side and do the math, making sure to compare worst-case scenarios. Be sure to look at initial interest rates, future interest rates and payments (if different), and the possibility of prepayment penalties.
  
  
• Confuse "Pre-Approved" and "Pre-Qualified" with a Loan Commitment: These are debatable terms in real estate because not all lenders apply the same definition to each expression. In fact, one leading real estate dictionary contains neither expression because their definitions are uncertain. According to one school of thought, however, when you are "pre-qualified," the lender is making an educated guess about how much you can borrow based on information you've provided. When you are "pre-approved," the lender has verified everything you have told him or her and is offering to lend you up to a given amount at current interest rates -- under certain conditions. Whether pre-qualified or pre-approved, final clearance and a check at closing -- a loan commitment -- are subject to an appraisal satisfactory to the lender, good title, a last-minute credit check, and other verifications. When meeting with lenders, always ask how they define each term and what additional steps will be required to obtain a loan.
  
  
• Have Too Much Credit: Excessive credit is almost as bad as no credit or even bad credit. Even if you pay your bills on time, lenders tend to focus just as much on how much credit you have available to you as they do on timeliness. So being up to your ears in car loans and credit cards is a sure way to be turned down for a mortgage. Postpone any big ticket purchases until after you buy your house.
  
  
• Lie on Your Loan Application: Exaggerating your income on a mortgage application or putting down other untruths can be a federal offense. Lenders rarely prosecute liars. But if they find out later, they can call your loan due and payable. Don't ever sign your name to a loan application that is not completely filled out, either. Loan officers have been known to stretch the truth to get a client approved, but it's the borrower who ends up paying the price, often in the form of monthly loan payments he can't afford.

• Hide If You Can't Make Your Payments: The worst thing you can do is ignore phone calls and letters from your lender when you are behind on your payments. Lenders have many options at their disposal to help keep borrowers from losing their homes to foreclosure. But they can't do anything for you unless they can talk to you about your difficulties. Lenders are the enemy only if you give them no other choice.
  
  
• Skip a Home Inspection: Failing to make your purchase contingent on a satisfactory home inspection could be a costly mistake. Independent home inspectors examine houses from stem to stern. They'll be able to tell you whether the roof and/or basement leaks, whether the mechanical systems are in good shape and how long the appliances should last. They can't report on things they can't see, but at least their trained eyes are better than yours. So don't pass just to save $300-$400; that's money well spent.

10 Reasons To Buy A Home!

Many people – especially singles and young couples who are just starting their careers – have mixed feelings about purchasing a house. They worry about getting tied down and taking on a lot of debt.

Here are 10 Compelling Reasons Why Anybody Who Can Afford It Should Consider Buying A Home:

• House prices tend to rise over time, so a house is one of the best investments you can make. Home prices in the U.S. have risen three percent to six percent a year for the past 20 years. That trend is likely to continue. So if you buy a home now, you’ve put your capital in a safe investment where it is likely to grow.
  

• You’ll pay less tax. You can deduct the interest you pay on your mortgage from your taxable income. The value of this tax break depends on factors like your personal tax bracket, the size of your mortgage, the rate of interest you pay on it and how long you’ve held the mortgage. As a rule, the newer the mortgage, the greater the amount of interest you pay each month and the bigger the tax break. Therefore, recent buyers with young mortgages tend to get the greatest benefit.
  
  
• You’ll be buying a piece of real property rather than putting money in a landlord’s pocket each month. The real cost of renting is higher than the monthly payment. There is also an opportunity cost equal to the amount you would gain by using the money to purchase a home instead. Even if the house you purchased did not appreciate in price, you would be able to sell it and recoup some of the money you put into it.
  
  
• Interest rates are still historically low. This makes it relatively inexpensive to take out a mortgage. The lower the interest rate, the less you actually pay for your house and the sooner you can pay the mortgage off. Our loan calculator can show you how different interest rates affect the total cost of your mortgage and the time it takes to retire it.
  
  
• You’ll be able to use the equity in your home for low-cost loans for other purposes. You can access the paid-up equity you accumulate in your home in the form of a home equity loan or a home equity line of credit. Because they are secured, home equity loans and lines of credit generally carry a lower interest rate than other types of consumer loans, such as auto loans. The interest on them is generally tax-deductible, as well.
  
  
• You’ll have the stability and emotional security of owning your own home. No more worrying about dictatorial or negligent landlords, rent increases or the possibility your building will be sold and redeveloped or turned into a condo. You’ll be able to live in your house as long as you like, fix your monthly payments for as long as 30 years and you’ll be in charge.
  
  
• You’ll be able to redecorate and renovate any way you like, any time you like. Rules about the paint colors you can use will be a thing of the past. And you’ll be able to tear out walls, install a powder room and make any other improvements you want. Best of all, if you decide to sell, you’ll recoup at least part of the cost of the improvements.
  


• You can have a garden. This is one of the big pluses of ownership – a little piece of land you can call your own, where you can grow tomatoes or roses, barbeque, and play with your kids and pets.
  
  
• You’ll be able to put down roots in a community. When you’re a homeowner, you’ll get to know your neighbors, participate in street sales, meet potential baby-sitters and play Saturday-morning touch football in the park. Renters tend to live more insular lives.
  
  
• You’ll have a greater voice in community affairs. Local homeowners generally have more clout – individually and through ratepayer’s associations – when it comes to development proposals, school issues, changes to traffic control and routing and the like. Because renters tend to be more transient than homeowners, they have less influence on policymakers.
  
  

Radon Overview

Does your household water come from a well? If so, your water probably has radon gas. Radon gas is normally found in all well water. Bedrock wells typically have much higher radon concentrations than dug or point wells.

WHAT IS RADON?

Radon is a colorless, odorless, tasteless, naturally occurring radioactive gas produced from the decay of the element radium, which occurs naturally in rocks and soil worldwide. Radon gas can dissolve in groundwater and later be released into the air during such normal household activities as showering, dishwashing and doing laundry. When radon accumulates in indoor air it can pose an increased health risk, primarily, lung cancer.

RADON PATHWAYS INTO YOUR HOME

Radon can enter a home via at least three common pathways:

· Migration (up from the soil) into the basement through cracks and/or other openings in the foundation.

· Release of dissolved radon gas from the household on-site water supply.

· Release from building materials such as a granite block foundation, some fireplace materials, and floor or wall tiles.

Although there are some exceptions, in general, the migration of radon up from the soil contributes the largest percent of radon found in the average home. Radon from a groundwater type water supply source, particularly a bedrock well (also known as an artesian or drilled well), contributes the next largest percentage of radon in the home. The radon contributed from building materials is typically very small. DES recommends that the two predominant pathways should be evaluated and that initial action to reduce radon exposure should target the pathway that contributes the largest percentage of risk to occupants.

HEALTH EFFECTS

The primary risk pathway from exposure to radon gas is through inhalation of radon-laden air in a home. Studies indicate that high levels of radon gas in the air increase the risk of lung cancer. An additional health risk is associated with the ingestion of the radon that remains dissolved in the water and is consumed. On average, this latter risk is substantially lower than that associated with inhalation. The risk from radon in water is relatively high when compared to other drinking water contaminants. For more health risk information concerning radon in air and water call the DES Health Risk Assessment Program at (603) 271-4664 or go to their website to see the health related fact sheet on radon at www.des.state.nh.us/EOH/Radon/RadonQ&A.doc

HOW MUCH RADON IS TOO MUCH?

Radon in Indoor Air The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has set an advisory "action level" of 4 pCi/L for radon gas in indoor air. While not a mandated health standard, this level is a guideline for people to use in assessing the seriousness of their exposure to airborne radon. Concentrations noticeably lower than 4 pCi/L are desirable.

TESTING FOR RADON

DES recommends that both the interior air of a home and that private well water supplies should be tested for radon.

Testing Water for Radon - A test for radon gas in drinking water requires approximately two weeks for processing, requires a special sample bottle, and costs $20 (2005) A sample container for the radon water test may be obtained from the DES Laboratory by calling 603-271-3445/3446. Many independent laboratories also provide testing for radon in water. Water testing can be done at any time of the year. If the well/water system has not been in regular use, the entire system should be flushed for at least 20 minutes to ensure that fresh water is captured in the sample container. "Old" water will have a lower radon concentration due to radon's half-life of approximately 3.6 days.

A review of PWS data shows that radon concentrations in water may vary substantially from one test to another due to many reasons including the level of saturated soil above the rock, atmospheric pressure, prior well pumping and other factors. DES recommends at least two radon tests (at least one month apart when possible) be processed before determining the average radon concentration in water.

Get A Home Inspection! (Part 2)

That's why it is so important for you, the buyer, to get an independent home inspection. Ask a qualified home inspector to thoroughly examine the physical condition of your future home and give you the information you need to make a wise decision.

When you make a written offer on a home, you should insist that the contract state that the offer is contingent (dependent) on a home inspection conducted by a qualified inspector. You will have to pay for the inspection yourself, but it could keep you from buying a house that will cost you far more in repairs down the road. If you are satisfied with the results of the inspection, then you can proceed with your offer.

As the buyer, it is your responsibility to carefully select a qualified inspector. The following sources may help you find a qualified home inspector:

• State regulatory authorities. Some states require licensing of home inspectors.



• Professional organizations. Professional organizations may require home inspectors to pass tests and meet minimum qualifications before becoming a member.



• Phone book Yellow Pages. Look under "Building Inspection Service" or "Home Inspection Service".



• The Internet. Search for "Building Inspection Service" or "Home Inspection Service."



• Your real estate agent. Most real estate professionals have a list of home inspectors they recommend.
  

Radon gas testing. Radon is a natural radioactive gas found in some homes. Strong concentrations (amounts) can cause serious health problems. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the Surgeon General of the United States recommend that all houses should be tested for radon. For more information on radon testing, call the National Radon Information Line at 1-800-SOS-Radon or 1-800-767-7236. As with a home inspection, if you decide to test for radon, you can do it before or after signing the contract, as long as your contract states your purchase depends on your satisfaction with the results of the radon test.

National Lead Information Clearinghouse - Many homes built before 1978 have lead paint, and some ingredients can threaten your health. To protect your family, you should be sure to get a lead-based inspection and/or risk assessment. For more information, contact the National Lead Information Clearinghouse at 1-800-424-LEAD or 1-800-424-5323.

Get A Home Inspection! (Part 1)

Buying a home is one of the most important purchases you will make in your life, so protect yourself by making sure that the home you want to buy is in good condition. A home inspection is an evaluation of a home's condition by a trained expert. During a home inspection, a qualified inspector takes an in-depth and fair look at the property you plan to buy.

The inspector will:

• Evaluate the physical condition: the structure, construction and mechanical systems
• Find and list items that should be repaired or replaced
• Estimate the remaining useful life of major systems (such as electrical, plumbing, heating, air conditioning), equipment, structure and finishes

The home inspector does not estimate the value of the house.
After the inspection is complete, you will receive a written report of the home inspector's findings, usually within five to seven days.

Home inspections are not appraisals. A property appraisal provides an estimate of a property's market value. Lenders require appraisals on properties before loan approval because they do not want to loan more than the property is worth. Appraisals benefit lenders; home inspections benefit buyers. The FHA requires lenders to obtain appraisals of properties backing FHA-insured loans.

The FHA requires appraisals for three reasons:

• To estimate the market value of the property
• To make sure that the property meets FHA minimum property requirements/standards (health and safety)
• To make sure that the property is or easy to resell.
  

The appraisal will note problems that are easy to see with the property and non-compliance with HUD's minimum property requirements/standards. These problems may not be the same as those items noted in a home inspection report.

The FHA does not guarantee the value or condition of your future home, and the FHA does not perform home inspections. If you find problems with your new home after closing, FHA cannot give or lend you money for repairs, nor can it buy the home back from you. It cannot help you with the builder or seller. - Part 2 Will Be Posted On March 27